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Description of August 1860 Fashion plate from Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine at 190 Walking Toilet—The hat is of Belgian straw, with a rolled brim; a piece of black lace is placed on the inner edge of this roll. It is trimmed with two feathers and a large velvet rosette; a white feather is placed on one side of the hat, and a black one on the other. The dress is of black silk, trimmed with green piping, and green buttons, and a narrow black Maltese lace. The body and skirt are made without a seam at the waist, and the front from top to bottom is slashed and piped. Each side passes alternately under and over, so as to form square tabs, which are small at the waist, rather larger towards the top of the body, and increase in size from the waist to the bottom of the skirt. Each tab is finished off by a narrow black Maltese lace. There are about eight widths in the skirt; each width is sloped at the top, and is about twenty-four inches wide at the bottom. They should all be slashed and lap over, as in the front. The sleeve is round underneath, and cut in the pagoda style; it is slashed like the skirt from the shoulder to the bottom. The front or upper side of the sleeve is cut to a point and turns back as a cuff, with a button at the end of the point. The inside of the sleeve is trimmed with a ruche of black and white silk. Young Lady’s Toilet.—The hair is dressed in raised bandeaux, with a bow falling low on the neck behind. The dress is of clear organdie muslin, trimmed with ruches of mauve-coloured silk. The body is low, and gathered before and behind into a band at the top, which is covered by a silk ruche pinked at the edges. The waist is short and round, over the band of which should be worn a sash tied behind. The sleeve is composed of puffing, confined lengthwise by silk ruches. It is pleated in on the shoulder between two narrow ruches, and a double ruche forms a very open band at the bottom. The skirt is gathered in to the waist, and is trimmed at the bottom for the depth of about half a yard, with a double ruche at the top, and a triple one at the bottom. Between these ruches the skirt forms puffings, crossed every ten inches by small ruches. Riding Costume.—The hat is of white straw, with turned up brim, and is trimmed with velvet and feathers. The riding habit is of nankeen quilting, trimmed with white cotton braid, and buttons. The body is quite plain, and has neither collar nor cape; the short skirt is cut away square on each hip, and forms a tail behind, with pointed facings. On each tail in front there is a small pocket, covered by a flap. The body is trimmed with a white braid, laid on, and not bound, and the skirt the same. Black silk cravat, plain linen collar, and sleeves, and lavender-coloured gauntlets. Visiting Toilet.—The bonnet is of rice-straw, trimmed with lace, roses, and green foliage, and a straw curtain. The dress is of two shades of green striped silk, with a white ground, having green flowers between them, and is trimmed with fluted bands of the two tints. The body is plain, with a short, round waist, fastened by a narrow band with clasps. The front is trimmed with light green buttons, edged round with a fluting of dark green, and dark green buttons, edged round with a fluting of light green silk, placed alternately. The sleeve is tight, and cut on the cross, and is covered at the top with a small epaulette formed by two rows of small flutings. The wristband has a slanting opening, trimmed with a narrow fluting; through this opening, the puff of the white sleeve should be visible. There are six widths in the skirt, and on the seam of each there is a fluted band, one inch wide at the waist, and six inches wide at the bottom. All these flutings, both large and small, are composed of two shades of green. In those on the skirt there are four inches light, then four inches dark, and so on to the bottom. On the small flutings the intervals are less. Lace collar and cuffs. |
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